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Home Fashion

From Afrobeats to Amapiano: How music is uplifting African fashion

As music from Africa gains international attention, brands from Burberry to Savage X Fenty are working with Afrobeats giants like Burna Boy to build cultural cache. These organic partnerships are helping fashion brands reach new markets.

by SAT Reporter
February 20, 2023
in Fashion
0
From Afrobeats to Amapiano: How music is uplifting African fashion

Across music streaming platforms, the Afrobeats genre is experiencing exponential growth. From Burna Boy to Tems, musicians from the continent are gaining popularity in new territories — and representing fashion brands from Africa and the diaspora on the international stage.

Streaming of Afrobeats music has increased by 283 per cent since 2019, according to streaming platform Spotify. “Afrobeats is truly in its golden era thanks to a mix of elements that have now perfectly aligned,” says Spotify’s head of music for Sub-Saharan Africa, Phiona Okumu. “The African diaspora and the desire to connect with some part of home has played a part in how this genre has spread.” Exclusive data Spotify shared with reporters  the US, UK, Nigeria, France and Netherlands as the top five markets for Afrobeats over the past three months.

Ed Sheeran and Justin Bieber are among the international artists to have collaborated with Afrobeats musicians. A similar trend is starting to happen in fashion. In November, Nigerian artist Burna Boy performed at the Savage X Fenty Vol. 4 runway show. In that same month, and under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, British heritage brand Burberry tapped Burna Boy and Colombian singer Shakira for its ‘The Night Before’ festive campaign.

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“Through globalisation and the streaming of music, African artists have now become a reference point,” says Adémidé Udoma, creative director of the London-based streetwear brand Abaga Velli. “Take someone like [Nigerian singer] Asake: he’s as trendy or more fashion forward than some of the biggest Western artists.”

Smaller African brands, particularly those who are yet to break out of their immediate market, are gaining exposure through dressing Afrobeats artists. When popular Nigerian musicians like Wizkid or Tems wear clothing from a small Nigerian brand on an international stage, it allows these brands to also enter into the spotlight, says Iretidayo Zaccheaus, founder of the annual West African streetwear convention, Street Souk. “These partnerships make a huge difference. It can take you from being just a small brand selling 20 T-shirts to selling 1,000 T-shirts, because these artists have so much influence over so many people around the world like Nigerians in the diaspora, Nigerians at home, people everywhere.”

Fashion’s growing interest in Afrobeats artists paints a similar picture to that currently happening with K-pop. Thanks to the latter’s dedicated fanbase, brands are finding opportunities to reach new audiences and build a presence in new markets.

“We have seen an increase in brands working with South Korean celebrities for brand ambassadorships that expand across collaborations, fashion week appearances and more,” says Alison Bringé, CMO at data analytics firm Launchmetrics. “There has been a shift in recent years, where consumers look beyond their borders and at other cultures for inspiration. Global artists such as K-pop stars are a strategic partner for brands to leverage in order to tap into the cultural zeitgeist and reach new audiences.”

Visible and authentic

For luxury brands wanting to connect with African and diasporic consumers, the strategy needs to be well targeted. United Talent Agency (UTA) — a California-based company that represents the likes of American actor Issa Rae and model Emily Ratajkowski — worked with Burberry to ensure that its campaign featuring Burna Boy reached African and diasporic consumers. It wrapped the baggage hall at UK airport Heathrow’s Terminal 5 — through which all British Airways passengers pass when arriving from Nigeria and Ghana — in the Burna Boy X Burberry campaign.

UTA’s director of artist brand strategy, Irene Agbontaen, explains that it’s important for brands to take these campaigns to where consumers are. “It was a key part of the strategy that the campaign was implemented at Terminal 5 during ‘Detty December’,” a time of year when the diaspora flies home to West African cities like Lagos and Accra for a season of parties, music, arts and culture events, says Agbontaen. “It was important for me to pivot the campaign and make it visible to the diaspora. But, it was also about connecting with the audience and making it as socially relevant as possible.” It also brought the campaign to audiences with high spending power, she adds: flights from London to Ghana can range between £400 to over £1,500 during peak periods.

 

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