Avirex is a renowned leather brand distinguished by its aviation inspired designs, rooted in military craftsmanship, and celebrated within hip-hop culture. Avirex continues to redefine premium outerwear for a new generation, maintaining a balance between authenticity and innovation. With a legacy that originated on military runways and evolved into the heart of street culture, Avirex celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Initially created as a flight jacket for the American Airforce, over five decades, it has transformed into a symbol of status, strength, and sophisticated style.
Avirex is recognized as a fashion brand with cultural significance. The brand influenced streetwear in the 90s and early 2000s through its distinctive leather jackets, impacting Hip-hop and Grime culture. Artists and groups such as Biggie, Mobb Deep, Nas, Wu-Tang Clan, Da Brat, More Fire Crew, Skepta, and So Solid Crew have worn Avirex.
Avirex as a brand is currently experiencing a resurgence, Franklin Boateng, known as the “King of Trainers,” is instrumental in revitalising the brand. I sat down with Franklin to discuss his personal journey with Avirex, the brand’s evolution, and where it’s heading next. Franklin’s story with Avirex began in the early ’90s. Growing up in Tottenham, London, he would spend summers in New York to stay out of trouble and it was there that he first encountered Avirex jackets in the flesh. “I bought my first Avirex in 1997,” Franklin said. “I fell in love with it immediately. While many know Avirex from Top Gun, I knew it from the streets. Owning an Avirex felt like wearing a Rolex it was a badge of honour.” Spending £500 on a jacket at 17 years old was a significant amount. “I shouldn’t have spent that kind of money,” he laughed. “But when you’re young and passionate, you just know you need it. And to this day, I still have that same jacket.”
Unlike many who may have first acquired their Avirex from the United States (U.S.), Franklin proudly celebrates that his initial purchase of an Avirex was in the United Kingdom. This solidifies his personal and cultural connection with the brand domestically. Franklin’s interest in revitalising Avirex was initially ignited when he was approached by a company holding the Airex European license. His profound understanding of the brand’s cultural significance, coupled with his extensive network, enabled him to collaborate closely with Mia, the creative director, in the United States. “I helped launch a pop-up at Boxpark Shoreditch and made sure influential people like Mega Man from So Solid Crew were involved, crucial for Avirex’s UK presence,” Franklin said. Avirex has also been featured in the Netflix series Supercell and is now available at Selfridges.
Avirex jackets have historically been oversized, reflecting the fashion trends within hip-hop culture during that period. Franklin has observed these changes over time. “In the 1990s, they were notably baggy and influenced by hip-hop,” he stated. “With the rise of grime music in the early 2000s, the sizing evolved to a slimmer fit, aligning more with British street culture.” He noted that during his college years in East London, wearing an Avirex jacket drew attention, indicating a certain status.
Reviving a well-established brand such as Avirex presents challenges, particularly concerning pricing. Modern jackets range from £1,000 to £1,300, which is double the price they were in the 1990s. “Yes, the price is higher, but it fits into the current luxury streetwear market,” Franklin pointed out. “We’re seeing people embrace it again, especially now that it’s available in places like Selfridges.” He credits his relentless social media promotion and personal efforts for spreading the word. However, Franklin also mentions: “80% of people still don’t know Avirex is back!”
Avirex has expanded it’s range beyond traditional black or brown bomber jackets. The brand now includes vibrant colours such as green, orange, blue, and pink. “The creative team in the U.S., led by Mia, have done an amazing job,” Franklin praised. “Wearing Avirex now feels even more joyful. People want a cleaner silhouette these days, making the jackets suitable for daily wear, not just special occasions.”
This evolution has helped Avirex extend beyond its original street culture roots. “Now you see it in Shoreditch, across vintage scenes, and among people who wouldn’t have historically worn it. It has transcended.”
Avirex is planning to expand its operations beyond Europe. According to Franklin, the brand is considering expansion into Africa. While licensing arrangements present certain complexities, the presence of Afrobeats artists such as Burna Boy, Rema, and Asake, who already wear Avirex, could facilitate this move into the continent. Franklin is clear “Avirex should be the number one leather jacket brand in the world. It’s like a Chanel handbag, a real investment. We want it to be the jacket you pull out for a big occasion, or even just daily, knowing it’s timeless.”
He also hopes for physical stores, believing in the magic of trying on an Avirex in person. “You can’t replicate the smell and feel of that leather online,” he said passionately. “That physical experience is everything. “Franklin’s passion for streetwear and trainers started early, sparked by his mother’s love of tennis and appreciation for quality footwear. “She admired Boris Becker, the tennis player, so she bought high quality tennis shoes for us,” Franklin said. “That’s where my love for trainers and the nickname ‘King of Trainers’ really began.”
His journey from a kid in Tottenham saving for an Avirex jacket to now helping steer the brand’s European revival is a testament to how authentic passion and cultural understanding can breathe new life into a legacy brand. As Franklin put it best, “I’m a fan whether I work with Avirex or not. It’s about the feeling the jacket gives you and that’s eternal.”
